Palo Duro Canyon State Park - Texas
If you have known us very long, you know that trees, sunsets, (occasional sunrises) and rocks are much appreciated. Palo Duro was not a place we even knew existed before 2020 so when we learned of its convenient location along our path along I40, we determined to make a stop when opportunity arose. November was our maiden visit and it won't be our last. The rock formations were amazing. The long history of the area was fascinating! The long time ranch where barbed wire was introduced and cattle ranching as a joint venture between seasoned US ranchers and European investors proved very profitable! Indigenous peoples have long known of this wonderful area and we loved our time on the trails here.
We had a chance to test our fortitude as we camped since night time temperatures in November took a dip while we were there. A fellow camper told us he thought he would have to bring an ice pick to chisel us out one morning when temperatures were in the 20's. He might not have been far from wrong since there were icicles on the inside fly of the tent. Snug in our sleeping bags with an extra layer of comforter and using our Heater Buddy intermittently through the night had kept us quite comfortable. Sunshine warmed the days so removal of layers was necessary for comfort.
This proved to a be a wonderful place to visit with others! The tent is often a drawing point as fellow campers stop to check it out and conversations often lead to the sharing of picture from Barry's stash! How blessed we are to share the beauty God has allowed us to see with others. These visits have also been the place where future stops get planned as we learn of special places others have enjoyed and recommend to us. The list is growing! We may be camping a LONG time to get to our growing list!
After this initial visit, we are looking forward to a return trip! Amazing!!!
On our journeys we are continually surprised by the beauty we see! The view above is from our camp site on Lake Meredith near Fritch TX. We had caught a view of the moon over this body of water during our nightly excursion to the facilities (exceptionally clean and well designed ones, I might add) which caused us to take a chilly few minutes to "oo" and "ah" before we returned to our snug bed. The sun's rising caused more appreciation and this record. We had camped here in order to catch a visit with my wonderful cousin, Diane, and her husband. Such blessings! (And camping was free!)
I will never visit White Sands without thinking about a couple who got lost among the dunes and froze to death. It is a beautiful place but also one to be treated with respect and caution. When we were here last we had taken a long hike keeping a sharp eye on the markers. On our last visit the wind had acted as a perfect partner with the gypsum particles to give everyone a free facial scrub. This time the wind was calm and visibility was clear. Families were enjoying the chance to use saucers and sleds to "ride" the dunes. It really is an unusual place to find a "sand pile" but the winds have meticulously gathered miles of gypsum dunes at the base of the surrounding mountains.
When we drove into Guadalupe National Park in Texas after a day at Carlsbad, we were feeling a bit "duty" bound to visit this park. We had been here a few years ago and had hiked one of the trails so we chose a different trail to walk this time. As we drove into the parking area, we were greeted by a volunteer who smilingly said, "Oh, you are here to see the trees at their best!" In our minds we were a bit cynical having seen New England the month earlier but we smiled and said we loved colorful trees. She mentioned an area to watch for especially and we started on our way. Here in the dry area of the Guadalupe Mountains the trees surpassed our expectation! They had the intense color that we had observed in the Northeast, the trees were just not as numerous. Along draws and run off areas, the trees displayed the beautiful colors of fall next to cactus and high desert vegetation. The hike through this McKittrick Canyon was full of amazing beauty!
We decided it was time for a laundry stop and motel stay to enjoy a hot shower after our hike. This also necessitated a meal out which is a treat on our journey. God surprises us often with people who cross our path. On this particular evening we got to pray for our waitress whose grandfather was in the hospital with COVID pneumonia and not doing well. This encounter along with others have given us people along the way to continue to pray for as we wend our way from park to park.
Our journey from Big Bend National Park to Carlsbad Caverns took us past a small herd of javelina. They were grazing at the edge of the road and scurried away as we approached so no good pictures. These wild hogs have such a reputation that we were not sorry we had not encountered them on the trails. Barry had heard them one night in our campground but since we had been careful to eliminate all food from the area, they did not linger in our camping spot. We were also able to watch a herd of aoudad or "Barbery Sheep" when we stopped along the highway in Texas. Their ancestors had been imported from Africa in the 1940's and 50's after soldiers stationed in Africa during the war realized their potential as a game animal in arid regions of the United States. They have prospered well in Texas and we saw them in a couple of areas on our journey. Their presence as an invasive species is not appreciated by everyone since they compete with native mountain sheep for resources.
Carlsbad Caverns did not disappoint! It was a beautiful cavern! Due to restrictions by the National Parks Service, self guided tours are allowed but guided tours were not offered. We were free to wander the path at our own pace and could take as many photos as we wished. Barry took advantage of that opportunity though we agree that the pictures do not do justice to the immensity and intricacy of the formations. Having lived in the "Cave State" of Missouri, we appreciate a beautiful cave system and Carlsbad Caverns is a very awesome site.
"The Window" Santa Elena Canyon
We had heard many things about Big Bend National Park but we were still not prepared for the beauty we saw while there. This national park located in the southwestern part of Texas is very worth the drive though Barry has determined that getting there in a round about route through New Mexico may be his preferred path in future. Much of the journey there was through arid expanses. It was fun to see cotton fields growing along the way and we learned that Texas is the largest producer of cotton in the US. Some of the fields were being harvested so there were farming operations to observe as we traveled. Wide expanses of land were connected to the petroleum industry but you don't see much to distract you in those expanses.
However, there are real mountains as you traveled south and a portion of the Chihuahua Desert that make the journey worth taking. The variety of vegetation was fascinating! Big Bend has been the sight of dinosaur excavations bringing to light several dinosaur species in multiple periods of occupation. It boasts a hot spring along the Rio Grande River that has drawn visitors for centuries. A place of much variety!
We hiked at the Chisos Mountain Basin where we found a trail that became one of those "what does not kill you makes you stronger" hikes. The Window Trail is a long descent from the visitor center to a beautiful view over the surrounding area of the park. The glass like surface of the rock worn smooth over centuries of water run off was more challenging than we wanted so we looked at it from a safe distance. A kind couple from North Carolina who arrived earlier than us offered to take our picture and we reciprocated. After the tricky footing down to the overlook, we enjoyed just chatting with our fellow hikers for a while before we started back up, and up, and up!
It was a surprise to us to find this beauty within sight of two cities along the shore of Lake Michigan: Chicago, Illinois and Gary, Indiana. These dunes were protected through the efforts of a lady who chose to live here in the 1920's. So many of the National Parks are protecting natural places for the citizens of today and the generations to come. This area in Indiana is a testament to the foresight of a few who saw the need to guard this small area for the future before it was eliminated by those who wanted the sand for commercial use. Indiana Dunes National Park is testament that one person could make a difference. I hope is an encouragement for those who have a desire to work for change in our world.
We are beginning to anticipate that God will get us on track for our best destinations and to guide our steps as we wander on our journeys. Two couples we visited with while in New York at our campground recommended Letchworth State Park for a future visit. It has the deepest canyon in the northeast earning it the title of the "Grand Canyon of the East". Their opinion was that it was the "best" New York State Park. Three waterfalls grace the river that has carved the canyon and the middle falls boasts a rainbow in its spray if the sun is shining. It is quite a sight to behold. The trees were on the cusp of turning and we got glimpses of how amazing this canyon would look with the full color of fall.
It is hard to believe but these trees are considered "past" peak! This view was from Deer Leap trail where we learned a great deal from a local couple about the area. Killington and Pico Ski areas were to be the site for the Women's Ski Trials for the Winter Olympics at Thanksgiving. In October it was so alive with color and the temperatures were so mild that it was hard to envision the difference 6 weeks would make in the view. It was a beautiful area!
Another bonus of our hike near Killington was a recommendation of a breakfast restaurant for the next day. Most of our meals are camp food but since "someone" had a birthday the next day, we decided to give the restaurant a try. Barry discovered the difference between store bought maple syrup and the "real thing" harvested from Vermont maples and served on special pancakes in Mendon, Vermont. He is now a convert to maple syrup but not sure we will find such a treat again soon!
One of our conversations in the Acadia National Park was with a couple from Ohio who told us about this amazing drive through New Hampshire. We tucked it away in our minds to consider as we made our way from Maine back west. It did not disappoint! The tree color in New Hampshire was beautiful! We were there on Columbus Day Weekend and many, many people had gone looking for the color of fall in the Northeast. This scenic road winds along the banks of the Swift River through the White Mountains. We took advantage of one of the hikes you can access from the Scenic Byway and found this quiet mountain lake surrounded by amazing colored trees.
The day before we tackled the Kancamagus Scenic Roadway, we drove up Mount Washington which is also located in the White Mountains. It was a challenging drive but we found sensational views from the top! This mountain in New Hampshire boasts the highest wind speeds clocked at 231 miles per hour. It has very erratic weather and the road is a bit tricky if you are not accustomed to mountain road driving but it was very impressive. The view from the peak was obscured by clouds part of the time we were at the top but when you got glimpses of the terrain below, it was breath taking. We saw several people who had hiked to the top and had avoided the drive but we were not ready for that type of challenge on this trip. Maybe another year!
We have been so amazed at how God has directed our path at times on our journeys! This excursion started because of a mailman at a gas station in Caribou, Maine, and continued as a side trip recommended by two ladies at a roadside overlook. We did not realize that there was a new National Monument to be found on a dirt road in Maine but we highly recommend it!
The trees in Acadia had not reached peak but we knew that they were further along in northern Maine so we started to wend our way there after leaving the Bar Harbor area. We first headed east and ended up in the most eastern place we could go, West Quoddy Head State Park where a lighthouse over looks the coastline. Canada was within sight as was a coastal area with sharp boulders and steep cliffs. Turning north there we wandered along the "Bold Coast" where almost every house had a set of lobster traps sitting near their driveway. It was interesting to see the evidence of a different lifestyle as we made our way to Caribou, Maine, where we were spending a night.
We were unsure of where to go next when the kindly postman filling up his mail truck recommended two roads, one to the Canadian line and another coming back south. Trees of so many different shades of yellow, red and orange lined the highways, hillsides and shore lines of the many lakes we saw. Around every curve we debated stopping to record yet another set of trees! It goes without saying that we had found the motherlode of autumn color! Moose season had even started which raised our hopes of seeing one of those huge creatures avoiding hunters and venturing near the roadways. No such luck! But the trees did not disappoint!
Early in our planning we had hoped to stay in Baxter State Park, Maine's premier state park. It was booked for camping very early so we were excited to get a view of Katahdin from the highway we were on. Katahdin is the highest point in Maine and is located in Baxter State Park. Some Maine natives kindly recommended the Katahdin Woods and Waters National Monument which is along a gravel road near Patten, Maine. We were so blessed by this quiet drive among beautiful trees and water as well as several conversations at stops along the way! Our view of Katahdin was one of our favorites, one of those random stops in the road to record the beauty we were able to see.
Acadia National Park was an amazing place. We were not quite prepared for the number of people that were there. I guess our time had been structured for so long on a school schedule that we did not stop to consider how many people might have the freedom to go to Maine in October. Reports we had read about when the trees were at their best in the fall recommended the week prior to Columbus Day. I guess they had read the same articles!
The trails were not quite as busy as the roads but it was wonderful to see so many people taking advantage of the beautiful weather. We compromised on which trails to tackle our first day and found ourselves wandering along the edge of the cliffs above the ocean on the Ocean Path Trail. A turn inland brought us to climbing granite boulders to which iron rungs had been attached on the Beehive Trail. Let's just say that we learned that there were some areas of strengthening we could use work on.
It is said that confession is good for the soul. I (Sherry) must admit that I was feeling pretty cocky that I had accomplished such a challenge as the Beehive when I looked at a family coming up over the edge of the rock face. There was a young woman with her arm in a sling with a little fellow with her. Wow! Now that was an accomplishment. When I told her I was in awe of her ability to complete the climb, she said her husband had been the strength that got them to the top. Not only had he helped his wife and son but had taken time to help another couple who gave him credit for getting them to the top, for them a herculean task. It was heart warming to hear of the encouraging stories many shared at the resting spot atop the rock face.
We were not done with our hike that day continuing on to Gorham Mountain Trail which seemed rather tame after our morning. At every turn we were greeted by a beautiful overlook of granite boulders with ocean in the distance. After several hours we made our loop and completed the trails to return to our car.
One of our destinations within Acadia was Cadillac Mountain where the above sunset was taken. This was one of the activities that required registration ahead of time so we had signed up for an early afternoon trip. That gave us plenty of time to hike around at the top and then make use of our camp chairs while we awaited this glorious sunset. While there we were blessed by many conversations with others who were drawn to the same granite slab looking out over the western landscape with an open view of the sky. A very sweet lady offered to take our pictures was very kind. We learned her husband had links to Missouri and others nearby had grown up in the Salem, Missouri, area. In our sojourn for a sunset, we also had a delightful conversation with a retired policewoman from Indiana. Amazing when we slow down that there are people to share stories with.
The next day we took another trip to the top of Cadillac Mountain via a trail which originated in our campground. This was a bit harder to do than the trip up in the car but the views were worth it. So many beautiful places to look out toward the ocean (and to conveniently take a breather) on our eight mile trek from Blackwoods Campground and back. Our rooftop tent was a sight for weary hikers that night! (Needless to say, dinner was a quick and easy with bedtime early!)
The Northeast in the fall has been a "carrot in front of the donkey" for us since we made the decision to retire in 2021. We love trees, water and any combination of the two. Our journey began at the beginning of October with one night stops in Indiana, New York and Vermont. Niagara Falls was a side trip while in New York. It was a cool, rainy morning when we arrived but that did not prevent us delighting in the sights, sounds and spray that came our way.The amount of water that thunders over the falls was breath taking. The trees there had not started to really turn color at that time but we were captivated by the water!
After leaving Niagara Falls, we made our way to Vermont where the trees were already wearing their autumn colors. Though not quite at peak, they were a delight to see. Our camp site at the Moosalamoo Campground was quiet and we had the joy of meeting some fellow roof top tenters from Florida. What was intended to be a quick "here is a photo for you" became an hour and a half conversation that we greatly enjoyed. Our mantra is becoming "we have time, we are retired" when the urge to rush from place to place starts to stress us. We are so thankful for the encounters with others along the way!!
We completed our Minnesota journey on the banks of the Mississippi near LaCrescent MN. Here the waters are still more blue than muddy and the river is wide enough for some river traffic but not as expansive as it becomes further south. The sunset from the overlook did not disappoint as we watched it highlight the clouds above the river valley. Our first excursion to visit America's National Parks is counted as a success! How blessed we have been to see the beauty of Minnesota and mark two parks off our bucket list!
While at Mille Lacs State Park we took a trail through an area where archeologists have been working to trace the life of the native peoples for the last 9,000 years. The Dakotas were followed by the Ojibwe (also known as the Chippewa) who settled along these abundant waters. The next day we hiked nearly 8 miles around this special lake. This Heritage Lake of the Ojibwe was a serene location where the dry season had clothed fern and trees in lovely color. Even the fungi was in color along the shore of the lake. Here we tried our hand at "walking on water" as we traversed a section of trail normally closed during summer due to the presence of water. Walking across the sedge was really more like walking on a sponge as our feet were on mats of vegetation that were floating on a water base. The migrating birds also visited this area on their journeys south. One patch of open water had hundreds of very noisy geese and about half a dozen swans who were much more reserved. A very special place indeed!
Fall colors in September???? Locals tell us that the color is early and mostly due to the lack of rain in this Land of 10,000 lakes (I think I read actually it is more in the neighborhood of 13,000!) Fires in the northern part of the state closed highways and changed lots of peoples' plans during September in Minnesota (including ours). So thankful for these vantage points in both parks to be able to get the view from above the tree canopy. We had not climbed a fire tower in many a year and were thankful that we could make the trips to the top. At the top of one of the towers we met a lady who explained what this dry weather may mean for the people this winter in Minnesota. We saw the beauty of the colors and she was concerned about extra frozen water pipes this winter. Perspective can be affected by what you know about cause and effect!
We learned of this park and being able to walk across the "Mighty Mississippi" at its beginning from our neighbors across the street in Strafford. During our travels we have seen the Mississippi in many different sizes and colors but it does not start out that way. Like so many things it starts small and, with the help of all those tributaries, ends up 'St. Louis big' and then keeps on growing! Looks like there has been quite a history of trying to nail down where the Mississippi actually begins but we will accept the determination of wiser heads and agree that it starts in this little outlet. It was refreshing to take our shoes off and wade across the Mississippi River as it flows out of Lake Itasca in Minnesota.
Friend deer was doing well to watch us, we were a bit lost when we encountered her. Using our great ability to read maps does not guarantee that we end up where we thought we were headed. This wooden path provided on the Bogwalk did keep us on the trail and we learned that there is a coniferous tree that turns color and drops its needles in fall, the larch. We are those people who stop to read the signs along the path and come away with more understanding of the areas we visit than we arrived with. This path goes into an area that sees heavy use in winter for cross country skiing and snowmobiling. There are maps for the trails that are titled "Summer Trails" and "Winter Trails", one of the differences being that winter trails are labeled which direction to travel to avoid accidents. Good thing we are there in the summer since directions are not our forte!
If you have been following along our path you know the love Barry has for clouds and the sky. Clouds add such interesting elements as we hike along and enhance the landscape. Despite the dry year they have had, this area was like walking on a sponge moving toward the lake. As we walked into the woods we called this fungi a perfect display of "candy corn" but its real name is "hens and chicks". Whatever you call it, it is edible but don't count on it tasting like candy! We were not far from International Falls, Minnesota, and the Canadian border as we journeyed on this trail near one of the Voyageurs NP Visitor Centers. Visiting International Falls in summer may be easier than when it is setting record low temperatures for the country. Nights in the roof top tent here might be a challenge in winter for sure!
Water and trees!!! Two of our favorite things to encounter on our journeys were in abundance in Voyageurs National Park. Throw in some nice boulders and we feel content! There were still a number of people in this area despite it being a bit late for the best experience. The park rangers and visitor center attendants were still welcoming as they readied to wind up yet another summer season in Minnesota. Other visitors like us welcomed the quiet paths and spectacular views to absorb peace and pleasure. On this particular day we crossed paths with a couple who were traveling to visit family and eventually looking for a way to help with their carpentry skills in the New Orleans area. It was a joy to share some encouragement and prayer with them for their journey. It was a much blessed day!
We heard often of how dry and warm this summer had been. The trees were so beautiful with birch and evergreens giving the forest a verigated look. Color was coming to the woods as we walked along this trail near Kabatogama Lake (it took us days to learn how to pronounce it). Evidence of a determined beaver wowed us both as the stump you see was three feet across. If the beaver who took down the tree and built the lodge nearby was still in residence, he deserved a wide berth! The demand for beaver pelts in Europe made this area a "gold mine" for fur traders, hence the "voyageurs". However, beaver became almost extinct in Minnesota since the fur trading industry depleted their numbers. Conservation efforts have made this area a place where these interesting animals are welcome again.
We made it to Voyageurs National Park on a beautiful day! The name of our campground came from a family of native peoples who lived on one of the many islands that make up this National Park. Voyageurs consists of numerous islands in three lakes that form part of the border between northern Minnesota and Canada. As many people told us, the best way to see Voyageur is to go by boat but as we arrived after Labor Day, that was not an easy option for us. The sunsets off the boat launch near our campsite with Bittersweet Island in the foreground were well worth braving the mosquitoes! Lucky for us, the drier than normal conditions of northern Minnesota meant they were not too daunting for evening jaunts to a sunset view.
A journey always starts with a first step. Our first step into our new adventure was to Wisconsin to spend a bit of time of family. The Ice Age trail has peaceful stretches that calm our thoughts and offer us new vistas to enjoy. The company of family is always an added delight as we walked and talked, dreamed and laughed through the forest and field. Just a nice little "stretch of the leg" near Scandinavia WI. A "stretch of the leg" comes from the repeated watchings of "The Quiet Man" with John Wayne and Maureen O'Hara. It can mean a short saunter to a day long endurance tromp; kind of a family joke!
Gooseberry Falls
Our journey led us north and we considered a recommendation from our oldest son who had visited Gooseberry Falls for our first night stay. We should warn you that we have categorized our camping spots by their amenities. Gooseberry Falls campground falls into the category of "modern plus" as it has running water, flush toilets and, the ultimate, hot showers. "Modern" campsites for us have running water and flush toilets but no showers. "Minimalist" campsites have pit toilets, still a modern convenience for old people climbing out of a tent in the middle of the night. "Wild camping" is a term we use for the dispersed camping allowed in National Forest and Bureau of Land Management Lands. This type of camping relies on our privacy tent and a portable toilet seat complete with disposable, decomposing bags. We are not as "wild" as some! On this journey we expect to encounter many types of accommodations but each will be a gift for rest on our travels.
Lake Superior
Lake Superior was an eye opening encounter! What a delight as we traveled the "North Shore" to northern Minnesota. Our path took us along the shoreline of the second largest fresh water lake in the world where the views were breathtaking! Despite our awe at its size, this stop along the shore where the Baptism River deposited its water and sediment offered an opportunity for a well loved practice of looking at rocks. The variety of weathering, color and texture made this a delightful stop and a few of them might have found their way into our car. We are not sure where they will find a home once we get back to Springfield, but they are a special reminder of a beautiful stop along Lake Superior.
First National Park on our journey: Isle Royale (pronounced just like the KC baseball team and not an unsweetened cooked custard). This park was only accessible via water (or sea plane). We caught the last ferry of the season from Grand Portage, MN. At the park we hiked a couple of miles and enjoyed views of this special, isolated location. Wildlife here take on a special role as you consider the fragile balance the ecosystem must maintain. The 22 mile trip out and back gave us another view of Lake Superior and provided a view of an abandoned light house on a tiny piece of land. Our return journey was a bit rough and Barry had chosen to sit in the perfect place to get a face full of spray every time we hit a wave which was frequently. The sun was shining on our water saturated bodies which made the trip quite "refreshing". A sweet "hand" on the boat tried to stand in between Barry and the spray taking the brunt of the water! We appreciated her kindness so much!
The Milky Way
Milky Way
As noted previously, camping gets categorized by amenities but this campsite would receive a five star rating for so many things. The view from our spot on the shore of Devilfish Lake provided some amazing vistas: five stars! Awake at 2:00 a.m. answering the call of nature provided the glorious view of the night sky: five stars! Quiet and peaceful: five stars! (It was a “minimalist” campsite as there was a pit toilet just a short jaunt through the woods.)
We learned another lesson about retirement at Devilfish. You can take the time at 2:00 a.m. to set up the camera and watch the Milky Way and Jupiter. There was no guilt because we were not stealing time from our rest for the next day’s activities. This was the reason we were here at this moment in time, an end in itself. We are trying to be aware and “present” to the moments of beauty and experience that cross our paths.
High Falls
You have heard about something being a “stone’s throw” away from something else. Here at the site of the highest falls in Minnesota along the Pigeon River we were a stone’s throw from Canada. Barry displayed his prowess with rocks and threw a rock from the US side of the river to the Canadian side. (I won’t mention that his first attempt narrowly missed my head since he forgot to release the stone from his grip.) Amazing that the “foreign shore” looked just like our native shore!