2024

Alaska, the Last Frontier

This part of our retirement trip had long been on our bucket list. Even before there was the dream of a retirement trip, we have dreamed of traveling to the 49th state. It was all we had hoped for and more! I am so glad we have photos to share of this magnificent place because words would never do it justice! 

Wrangell-St. Elias National Park and Preserve

We began our journey to the last National Parks we could drive to rather unexpectedly. All our prior trips had been planned with details and reservations with some advance notice of where and when. This trip made us feel a bit like Bilbo Baggins in the movie "The Hobbit: An Unexpected Journey" as we packed up our apartment and  tried to predict what clothing and  equipment we would need to journey on the longest trip we had undertaken since retirement in August 2021. We did not make reservations or determine a schedule for this trip but took a leap of faith that we would find all that was needed as we traveled. Our motto was to "take what we were given" in the way of experiences, people and, of course, photos! God blessed us greatly! 

We passed into Alaska on the 23rd of August, 2024, on the ALCAN Highway.  It was a noteworthy arrival so we stopped to record the evidence!  It was hard not to pinch ourselves at times to be reminded we had actually made it to Alaska! The ALCAN had been a fairly smooth road up until about 25-30 miles before the border when areas of frost heaves and rough pavement made travel a bit more challenging. Crossing into US territory did not change the road conditions which continued to be rough for another 25-30 more miles.  

The town of Tok, Alaska, has the claim to fame that visitors come into Alaska through it and leave Alaska through it if they drive. It was true for us! From this crossroads, we traveled to our first Alaskan National Park, Wrangell-St. Elias Park and Preserve. After multiple years of National Parks requiring reservations and wait lines for entrance, this was a very different experience. There were a handful of vehicles on the highways and even fewer travelers entering the park which has the distinction of being the largest National Park. Nine of the sixteen highest peaks in the United States are found in this park which totally surprised us. 

We chose to drive into the park on a 40 mile scenic route, Nabesna Road, that took us through low water crossings where water was coming off glaciers and where wilderness was right outside the window.  A friend told us that he found many places in Alaska where he felt like he could be standing in a place where no other human had ever walked with such vast distances and Wrangell-St. Elias introduced us to that feeling. We did not tempt fate and do any backpacking into those wilderness regions but we caught many glimpses of areas where man's fingerprint did not appear to be visible. 

No reservations were required to locate a free campsite for the night. The next morning we got in a hike in the park before continuing our travels on the Richardson Highway to the coastal town of Valdez, Alaska. 

Valdez, Alaska, on Prince William Sound  

Before reaching Valdez we were amazed by the beauty of the Keystone Canyon. It's sheer walls took rubber necking to another level. Numerous waterfalls even running in the fall added to the beauty of the canyon. The canyon is located about 14 miles from Valdez on the Prince William Sound. 

We had the good fortune to arrive while the salmon were still running (though it was nearing its end). It was also our good fortune to see black bears fishing for salmon, sea lions fishing for salmon and a large number of humans fishing for salmon. Despite all the organisms that wanted live salmon, thousands upon thousands of dead salmon lined the waterways. In nature's economy none of these salmon who had fought the fight to make it to their spawning grounds would be wasted. The salmon that lay dead would end up food for other organisms that were not demanding of live prey. 

The Valdez Glacier was unusual in that it had 'birthed' icebergs that floated in the lagoon at its 'toe'. The wind off the lagoon was bitter cold but the sight of these floating products of glaciers was not a scene to be missed, bundled up and walking fast was called for. 

Laundry and showers were also on the order of the day as well as the sight seeing that we had done on the banks of the Sound. When Monday morning came around, we were clean, dressed in clean clothes and eager to get one more view of the wildlife around the Sound. These animals shared the body of water with numerous ships linked to the petroleum industry and commercial fishing boats. Sitting on the banks of the Sound and watching the wildlife interacting was not over shadowed by well known disasters that had effected the area in the past.  Valdez is known for  the second strongest earthquake in history experienced in 1964 and a shipping disaster known as Exxon Valdez oil spill which emptied 11,000,000 gallons of crude oil in the Prince William Sound in 1989.  Observing the connection of life forms around Prince William Sound was delightful! 

As we left Keystone Canyon we got a chance to walk near Worthington Glacier and learn a bit more about the amazing masses of ice that formed the landscape of Alaska and continue to contribute its beauty! Further along the Glenn Highway on our way to west we got to observe another massive glacier, the Matanuska Glacier. The mountains along the Glenn Highway were beautirul and some were already sprinkled with snow on their peaks though we were still in the month of August. Fall was beginning to show itself in some high mountain valleys as the aspen were beginning to change from green to gold! 

Homer, Alaska, Halibut Fishing Capital of the World

Trying to avoid rain we opted to head toward Homer which was supposed to have lighter rain in the forecast. Rain along the coast seemed to be unavoidable but Homer had a chance to be less torrential. We arrived after dark (not the most scenic time to get your first look at a town) on the Homer Spit, a long narrow section of land along which fishing boats and tourists found a place to anchor. A campground right along the water gave us a place to set up the tent. At this point we had been in Alaska five days but we had not had to camp in the rain until then. Rain was not the worst thing that could have happened to us so we had a cold supper and crawled into our snug bed and slept soundly. 

Our first look at the area in daylight revealed a coastal area that was not really fancy but carried a long history of halibut fishing. There was a memorial to the brave men and women who had lost their lives to the sea. One landmark was an old cabin built in 1897  next to a lighthouse that now serves as a saloon. We met a man who had lived in Homer as a young man who told us we missed one of the best parts of the Spit. He explained that twenty five to thirty years ago a woman had gotten permission to feed some of the eagles who were starving. The stipulation of the Conservation Agency was that if she started she could never quit. Well, age took its toll and she could not longer feed the eagles but others in the community stepped up and now they collect the heads and other parts of the fish after cleaning to feed to the eagles. Further reading revealed that she died in 2009 and up to 200 eagles have been known to come to feed on the scraps during the winter between December and April. 

Seward, Alaska, More Glacier Adventures

Keeping to the coast for our next stop, we arrived in Seward. This is the site of the next National Park, Kenai Fjords National Park. Our camping home was at a city run campground that was quiet and the scene of one of our favorite memories. 

Our first day there we took advantage of the sunshine and hiked up near the toe of Exit Glacier. While there we took the photo for a young couple from Switzerland. They in turn took our photo and then shared their story. They had been to the southern part of South America and had traveled up through Central America and the lower 48 states. Truly it is such a joyful time for us to get to hear the stories of others along our path. 

We did decide to schedule something ahead while in Seward.  Kenai Fjords National Park is not easily accessible via car in many areas but there were boat tours that allowed for a water view of two different glaciers and the wild like that might be visible. The inlet also supported large cruise ships that docked and give passengers the opportunity to see Alaska on solid ground. On a gray rainy day we took off from Seward and spend the day on the water. We 'took what we were given' and we were given much! Despite the rainy weather we were able to see sea otters, humpback whales, seals, Stellar sea lions, porpoises, two kinds of puffins as well as many other birds. The puffins were normally already out to sea but we got to catch sight of several near our boat. We watched two icebergs getting 'birthed' from the (Holgate or Aialik) Glacier. It was a day to remember! 

Camping at Seward was special in several ways! We were right near the water and close to the town so walking was easy but our camping neighbors were the most special part of our time there. One couple had camped in the same campground as we had in Homer. They were ground tenters and had endured the rain and chill. It was nice to see them in back to back campgrounds. Another neighbor shared dried salmon with us. An Alaskan Native of "the Real People", Vivian was  generous with her salmon saying she had eaten sch salmon in her lifetime, she could not enjoy it any more. 

Our other neighbors were also very special and carry a treasured place in our hearts since God had an assignment for us with them. Before leaving Missouri a long time friend had given us an envelope with money he felt God wanted us to give away to someone who needed it. Usually we see people along any path we take that can use some help but we had not encountered anyone before we got to Seward. This couple were both US Military veterans who had been layed off from their cannery jobs. They were trying to find a next place to live and work with winter just around the corner in Alaska. These were the people we were convinced God had intended to receive the money we had carried for over a month and across more than 4,000 miles. It was a blessing to get to be participants in God's provision for this special couple. We were just delivery people but what a delight! 

Anchorage and the Turnagain Arm

After leaving Seward we found ourselves in sunny skies! It was Labor Day Weekend and people were taking advantage of the last three day weekend of the summer! On this trip we had decided to only drive in the daytime and to limit our driving to six hours or less. We had invested in 'The Milepost', an annual publication with amazing information about everything along the drive to Alaska and in Alaska itself. It had been invaluable in our searches for night time stops, possible fuel stations and information on what we were seeing or could see along the highways and byways. On this day we had determined our best stop for the night was before we arrived in Anchorage so we made a mid afternoon stop at Bird Creek Campground which is par of the Chugach State Park. 

Our plan for Sunday was to attend church at a Vineyard in Anchorage and then to pick up medicine that Barry needed at Walgreens before returning to our campsite. It was a very special time with the Vineyard folks who made us welcome and offered advice about our coming trip to Denali. As usual Walgreens fulfilled Barry's medicine needs in a timely method. Whether we are in the lower 48 or in Alaska, Barry can get what he needs to stay healthy! 

When we camp, we usually plan to cook most of our meals but being in the largest city in Alaska, we opted for a meal we did not have to cook ourselves. Spinards Roadhouse was a great place to try salmon and halibut and I did not have to wash dishes! And when we returned to camp, there was still time for a hike up along the Turnagain Arm of the Cook Inlet. 

Monday dawned with a light rain falling but not enough to prevent us from more exploring (and finding a laundromat to restore many of our clothes to wearing condition). We opted to visit the Alaska Native Heritage Center where we saw a whale skeleton, native homes and Alaskan craftsmen applying their skills. In one house we met a young lady who was practicing her bead work and she gave us the small piece she had been working on. Such intricate work! 

After our venture to the city, we returned to our camp with clean clothes ready for the next adventure. Ever the chaser of sunsets, we set on the trail to catch the sunset on the Turnagain Arm. Earlier while driving by this area we had seen a black bear so we went with bear spray in hand. We did not encounter a bear but we did have the delight of seeing an amazing sunset to the west and a double rainbow to the east! Barry was challenged to catch both views for as long as the light and rainbow continued. That did mean it was getting dark when we walked back to our campground but we arrived without incident. 

Turnagain Arm was named by Captain Hook who was seeking a Northwest Passage but following this arm resulted in him having to "turn around again" in 1778. Along the Arm is a spot named Beluga Point where beluga whales can be spotted. We were not able to catch sight of the whales but we did see evidence of the "bore tide" which leaves innocent looking waves in the sand that acts like quicksand if walked on. 

At this point in our journey it was time for an oil change. Our Subaru was purchased new in Fayetteville, Arkansas, and most of its oil changes had been done back at Adventure Subaru. However, we were too many miles away for that to be possible so we located a Subaru dealer in Anchorage for this maintenance before we headed to our next and final National Park. 

Denali National Park and Preserve

As we traveled north from Anchorage we were aware of several places where you could catch a glimpse of Denali, the 'tall one' or the 'high one'. As the highest mountain in North America at 20,310 feet high, you would think seeing it would be easy. Not so! At this time of year there is much cloud cover that prevents easy viewing. Denali State Park located at the southern end of the National Park provided a camping spot but not a view of The Mountain. 

Once in the national park on the following day, we located our camping spot at Riley Creek Campground and decided to explore. After the first afternoon when we hiked around Horseshoe Lake Trail, we did not have to move the car until we packed up to leave the park. Trails from the campground led us back to the Visitor Center, to the sled dog kennels and to the bus terminal for our bus tour. The steps were much needed and welcomed. It was the most we had gotten to hike in weeks! It is amazing how fast we lose muscle strength when most of our days are spent in a car. 

Our next day's hike was along Rock Creek to the sled dog kennels. Denali National Park depends on their sled dog teams to travel the vast wilderness area during the winter, a winter that lasts much longer than anywhere in the lower 48 states. Maintaining a sled dog team is becoming more rare even in Alaska due to the high cost of maintenance and intense commitment of human resources. Historically dog sled teams were owned by almost every family in Alaska but with the increase of mechanical devices for travel in the snow, many families as well as villages have let go of their canine teams. We came away from the demonstration at the kennels with a new respect for what it takes to survive and thrive in Alaska. We were amazed by how fast the dogs were and how eager they were to run! 

Full disclosure here: when we hike over 5 miles we usually rationalize having ice cream (or Andy's Frozen Custard when in MO). Our path by the time we returned from the kennels was 8.4 miles and the store near our campground offered some of the best ice cream we have eaten! We also had enough signal that Barry could watch the Chiefs football game that evening as we recovered from our hike. 

We had scheduled a bus tour while in Denali which gave us the chance to "take what we were given" resulting in a perfect shot of Denali. Our view only lasted about 30 minutes until the clouds rolled in again but we rejoiced in the gift! This trip also gave us beautiful views of the fall foliage. Blueberries in Alaskan fall turn a brilliant red and are the prime food of the grizzlies in the area. The aspen and dwarf birch were a lovely yellow, easily seen from the bus windows. We got glimpses of Dall sheep, brown grizzlies and Arctic ground squirrels. 

On our last morning in Denali we packed up the tent and took the drive as far as passenger vehicles could travel in hopes of seeing one of the animals we had not yet spotted, a moose. Camping neighbors from Buffalo, New York had encouraged us to try an early morning drive to spot them. Signs along the road reminded people to not approach wildlife especially moose at that time of year. Again we were blessed by the appearance of huge bull moose who decided to cross the road behind us giving Barry a perfect shot with the camera! 

Our 51st National Park was such a delight and so full of images that filled our hearts and minds with wonder! For us it was a bit bittersweet to know that our National Park journey to the parks we could drive to was complete. Such a blessing of places and people over a three year period! 

But wait..... we still had to drive back to the lower 48 states and 2024 was not over! 

Fairbanks and the Hope of the Northern Lights

One of the hopes we had when we left on this amazing adventure north was the possibility of seeing the Northern Lights. Interestingly, during this season people as far south as Missouri and Arkansas could see the Aurora borealis. One of the advertisements we had received about Alaska claimed that Fairbanks was a perfect place to see the famous light show if you stayed at least three days. One of the blessings of not having definite plans for stops and sights is the freedom to stay in one place as long as you want to. 

We arrived in Fairbanks on a dreary, chilly day and located a campsite on the edge of the local Fairgrounds. On our way to our spot to camp we drove past the University of Alaska and the Museum of the North.  We had learned from someone who grew up in Fairbanks that this university was the first state college in Alaska. Our camp host recommended an app to track the Northern Lights and we were fortunate to be in an area with high probability of a sighting. 

Fairbank's Thompson Native Heritage Center was recommended by our camp host as well so we spent part of our afternoon there learning more about the special place we were in. While we were there we watched a movie about yet another National Park that we would not be able to drive to, Gates of the Arctic. Wow! An amazing area of Alaska where no roads go! 

Being in a city for a couple of days usually gave us an opportunity to replenish our food supply and catch up our laundry. Walmart fulfilled the food search and we decided to put off laundry for another day. Later that night a faint colored light was visible with the phone's camera over the fairgrounds during one of our night time hikes to the bathroom.  If we did not see any more of the Northern Lights, we had caught a glimpse the lights resulting from massive solar  explosions.

Catching up laundry at the biggest laundromat we had ever seen was not a hardship at all!  Not only was this the biggest laundromat but one of the best maintained as well as having a great staff. The gray, chilly  weather encouraged us to keep a roof over our heads so we visited the Museum of the North. The displays were amazing with mastodon and mammoth skeletons and information on how to tell them apart. We saw the model of an American lion which was a new on to use. 

When we finished our wandering at the museum, we set out to see if we could locate a spot to watch the amazing night time light show we had hoped to see.  We thought we could scope out a road in the daylight to make us feel more confident in the dark. Google offered some suggestions for places to watch Northern Lights so we traveled crooked and steep mountain roads with numerous lumber and mining company trucks! With the foggy conditions, we were not certain this location would have an advantage for the evening's light viewing. 

When the sun went down and the app showed the prime time to be watching for the lights we loaded up into the car with snacks and liquid to sustain us during our vigil.  We ended up at two areas, both of which were socked in with fog. If the Northern Lights made an appearance, we did not get to record it. The night's exploration came to an end way past our normal bedtime and we climbed into our tent at 1:00 a.m.

Farewell to Alaska

As we started our journey back toward Canada, we drove to where the ALCAN Highwy in Delta Junction. It was the 9th of September and the Visitor Center was closed for the season which was just a reminder that winter season in Alaska was just around the corner. Our last night in the 49th state was spent along the banks of Yarger Lake. We visited with several of our fellow campers; a young lady from New York, a couple from Holland, and a fellow from Canada who was a very adventurous traveler! Barry says often that our trip was filled with such incredible places but the best part of our trip were the people we met! 

Yarger Lake was populated with  beaver, loons, swans and a variety of other water fowl that we observed. That night over the lake's smooth surface we were treated to a display of Northern Lights! It was hard to give up the view to go back to bed at 4:30 a.m. 

As we made our way into the Yukon Territory later in the day, we knew we had been gifted with a phenomenal trip and that we hoped to come back for more of the beautiful state of Alaska! 

CANADA - A slower pace through diverse country

Our journey through Canada was a wonderful undertaking with so much variety! The people and places we encountered make us excited about the possibility of going back in the future. 

Friends had recommended a copy of "Milepost", a magazine for those headed to Alaska via Canada! We wore it out! With our handy atlas to give the big picture and the "Milepost" to focus on minute details, we figured we were ready for this adventure! We truly felt we were being very adventurous as we had not planned the stops along the trek to Alaska in exact detail which was very different from our other National Park trips over the last few years. The official at the border crossing was not so impressed and questioned where we were staying and how long we were planning to stay in Canada. We had prepared for foods not allowed to be carried into Canada which she did not inquire about at all. I had discarded milk, eggs and meat as well as bananas before we came to border crossing  but had not reserved our nightly stays! Our priorities appeared to be out of step with official concerns. 

First Candian Province: Saskatchewan

Since our journey started in Minneapolis where we were visiting our son and his family, we began the trip through our friendly northern neighbor in Saskatchewan. We had read about camping in Canada and the opportunities offered by the provincial parks had caught our attention. Our first night in Canada was at the Moose Mountain Provincial Park which was full of amenities from  golf and tennis to fishing and hiking. We were amazed at the size of the park but especially thankful for its hot showers and treed campsites. 

Another priority for us on this trip was to not drive as far daily as we had previously practiced. Eight to ten hour days were pretty normal for our travels but we were determined to drive about six hours and then find a place to camp. Our next stop was a perfect reminder of the universal characteristic of teenagers on weekends, they congregate! We found a free camping spot at a Lions Park (yes, 'Lions' the organization not the animal) which was a nice perk and it was very quiet in the afternoon when we arrived. However, it was Saturday and located on a river with a pit toilet. It was the perfect equation for it to get busier as the sun went down. We were never bothered directly and did not feel unsafe at all but sleep was not an option from midnight to 3:00 a.m.

The next morning proved to be a bit cloudy but no rain. The crowds had dissipated and we were again alone in the campground. It was here that we scheduled our very first 'house sit'! We interviewed via FaceTime with a lady in New Mexico who needed a house sitter for her home and three cats while she traveled. Our oldest son and his family had discovered this service called "Trusted House Sitters" and had recommended we give it a try for times when we did not want to camp while traveling. This particular sit was for part of  November and worked well with our tentative plans for the fall. We felt comfortable with our conversation and she was very positive about our coming, accepting us for the sit as soon as we ended our video chat. (The sit was amazing and we really enjoyed her cats.)

On to Alberta

Our path led us through Edmonton, Alberta, where we found a campground, a laundromat and a church we enjoyed visiting. We were still in an area of Canada that looked so similar to many of the plains areas of the US. But...we were buying gasoline by the litre, speed limits in the kilometers and using 'dollars' that went a bit further than their US counterpart. Gasoline figured out to about $6.00 a gallon. Speed limits were usually equivalent to our 55 mph in the US. The Canadian dollar was $.70 to the US dollar. Timing grocery shopping, gasoline fill ups, laundry stops and showers were made easy by the "Milepost" with some additional advice from fellow campers. We also found ourselves meeting people who had been to Alaska and were on their way south, opposite to our path. The people were friendly and glad to give advice on places they loved that we might enjoy.  Our decision to go to Alaska in August and September was made after a conversation a couple of years earlier in a laundromat in Springfield MO. A couple from Anchorage had come south for the winter and encouraged us to visit their home state in late summer to avoid a major mosquito encounter and for a chance to see the Northern Lights. Their advice worked perfect for us!

British Columbia and the Alaska Highway Journey Begins

British Columbia was the next province we journeyed through and it was here that our journey picked up the Alaska Highway at Dawson Creek. We had heard how rough the road had been in years gone by when people had driven it. The Alaska Highway (or Alcan Highway/Alaska - Canada Highway) was built during World War II to allow for a ground transportation route from the lower 48 states to Alaskan military outposts. Our experience with the highway was that it was a well maintained route with few of the potholes or frost heaves we had been warned about. Of course, there was road construction in numerous spots but all highway construction has to get done when Mother Nature is most hospitable. The beginning of this road was still over 1,000 miles from where you reach the Alaskan border. 

Camping in British Columbia at Bucking Horse River and Muncho Lake Provincial Parks provided many opportunities for conversations. Many of those conversations started around the roof top tent which was not very common in Canada while others were jump started by sharing photos with fellow campers. Our type of tent was not a common sight for many campers, actually we did not see many ground tents either. The temperatures at night were dropping into the 30's but daytime temps were comfortable. We did not take time to hike which would have been a good idea for two older people whose muscles and joints need exercise to stay mobile, something we will do differently if we have the opportunity to travel that way again. We were excited to see wild life along the highway the next day! Caribou and wood bison were feeding along the roadway. One of the things we noted was the lack of road kill along our route. Glad we did not encounter them at 70 mph in the middle of the road! 

Yukon Territory and a Sign Post Jungle

When we arrived at Watson Lake, Yukon Territory, we found an amazing place called the Signpost Forest. Here we placed a Peregrinators.life sticker on one of the large earth moving machines on display there and hung our Missouri license plate on a wire fence. As we had passed through South Dakota before we left the lower 48 states, we had gone through the steps to change our residence since we no longer had a home base in Missouri. South Dakota along with a couple of other states allow for 'residence' without living in a state. This accomplished, we no longer needed our 2024 MO plates. We wandered through the signs left by thousands of people over the years at this small community in the Yukon, right along the Alaskan Highway. The community accommodates travelers on four wheels and two as bicyclists also cross through the area. It is also a prime spot to catch internet, a rather rare commodity in much of rural Canada. 

We were very fortunate to not have lots of rain on our trip across Canada but it caught us in Whitehorse in the Yukon. It was a grocery shopping day as well as a chance to get some cash to carry with us. Many of the camping spots we had found required cash so we felt we needed to carry enough to cover those expenses at least. Whitehorse is the capital of the Yukon and a busy spot. Walmart, Sav-on Foods and a bank met all of our needs. We even decided to not picnic for lunch so Subway was handy.  Subways are a bit challenging for Barry since they offer so many options to choose from, too many for his peace of mind. It did not help that day since Canada has a vastly different set of choices so it may not have been his most relaxing meal. 

Our last night in Canada on the way north to Alaska was spent at a small campground with few campsites. The rain set in with a vengeance and we hunkered down for a cold dinner in our warm car. The next morning the sun revealed that snow had fallen on peaks near the campground! It was August 23rd! Missouri was still hot and humid and we were looking at fresh snow in Canada! 

Return Trip  Through Canada 

Leaving Alaska was hard for both of us as we had quickly come to love this wonderful state. It was like one giant park with a few towns and cities interspersed. However, we were excited about this coming portion of our journey because the Canadian National Parks of Jasper and Banff had long been on our bucket list of places we wanted to see. A stop at the actual end of the Alaskan Highway was a joy as we met a couple from Tennessee who were kind enough to take our pictures and we returned the favor. We also got the chance to have a sweet conversation about our families and experiences! People, places and experiences with both had earmarked our journey up to that point! 

With Alaska in our review mirror, we were anticipating still seeing some of the highest mountains in North America. As we had driven the Alaskan Highway heading north near the Kulane National Park and Reserve in Canada, the visibility had been negligible but the map showed some peaks higher than anything in the 48 states. Out of the top 24 highest peaks in North America, six are located in Mexico and the rest are found in Alaska and the western portions of Canada, particularly Yukon Territory!  We were acquainted with Denali's place as number one but peaks two, four, six, seven, nine, ten through sixteen, eighteen, and twenty through twenty three are all in Yukon, British Columbia or Alaska. Number 25 is Mt Whitney in California. We realized as we journeyed that our knowledge of high mountain peaks was sorely lacking. 

The journey along the boundary of the Kulane NP was beautiful marking another spot we would love to return to for more exploration. This park, like the Wrangel-St Elias National Park in Alaska and other parks we have encountered in the lower 48 states does not have public road access for the common everyday tourist. To really see parks like these requires technical hiking skills and much more stamina that these two 70+ year olds have. The areas of several national parks that have been declared 'wilderness areas' are intended for those who leave no trace as they visit. Backpacking to remote areas is a special experience but one we don't plan on practicing at this time in our journey. 

The viewing of the Northern Lights in Canadian campgrounds was breath taking! At a campground in the Yukon Territory we were able to share the opportunity for viewing the lights with a young couple we met from Colorado who were returning from Alaska as well. We have the 'good fortune' to have to get up in the early morning hours for bathroom trips. Other 'unfortunate' people get to sleep all night and miss some things. When we had shared pictures of our last night in Alaska when the lights had been beautiful, they asked us to wake them up so they could see them. Hmmm.... wake up almost total strangers who have dogs at 1:00 a.m.? Did they really mean it? But Barry had promised so he went and knocked on their camper door. The dogs answered his knock and he did not tarry to see if the people followed suit. (We learned later that they had gotten up and had gotten some amazing shots and video of the lights!)

Visiting that forested area at that time of year when bears are preparing for long winter's sleep brings with it a need for flexibility. We encountered that opportunity for 'flexibility' one evening as we had planned to stop in a particular provincial park. When we arrived at the park gate, a sign had been posted announcing the closing of the park due to bear activity. After exploring a couple of other possible camping spots, we back tracked to a junction with petrol (gasoline) and internet access (for a fee). Our Plan B proved to be a blessing in disguise. We met our neighbors of the night before also needing a Plan B so we shared internet and they shared their fabulous Northern Lights photos. We opted to go west to Stewart, BC while they needed to travel on south.

Side Trip to Bears and Glaciers

Stewart, British Columbia, is small community located on Chatham Sound. Camping at Rainy Creek Campground was a good spot to base for two nights. From here we were able to travel to Hyder, Alaska, where a wonderful area allowed for viewing grizzlies feasting on the last of the spawning salmon. A mother and son pair of hungry bears were entertaining as we observed from an elevated deck surrounded by bear spray carrying rangers.  From that spot we ventured on to a dirt road chasing a view of the Salmon Glacier. Twenty-five muddy miles later we arrived at the summit only to find the glacier was completely obscured by clouds. By the time we had descended along our route toward our camp we were able  to get a view of the toe of the glacier and the start of the Salmon River. As we passed near the mouth of the river, dozens of eagles waited for the river to deliver dinner. The salmon that had died upstream floated down to be plucked from the water by the hungry eagles. 

After a couple of camping stops in British Columbia we arrived at our most dramatic display of Northern Lights along the Fraser River. Our site was right on the river and when we returned from our early morning bathroom stop we were treated to a swirling, dancing light show of color over the river. I was moved to tears as I stood watching the lights above my head. Our commitment to "take what we are given" had just been rewarded by a magnificent early morning light show. A wonderful blessing indeed!

Banff National Park and a Glance at Jasper

Entering Alberta we were aware that the Jasper National Park and the city of Jasper had suffered a fire earlier in the summer which limited the access we would have as we traveled south.  Forest fires are so dangerous and the resulting destruction takes years to recover from. It was sad to see the results of the fire on the mountain sides and campgrounds. There was no access to the city of Jasper itself. We had met a couple along our journey who had been making memories in Jasper for 50 years and were grieving the loss of the lodge they had frequented.   

Traveling along the Icefields Parkway from Jasper NP south was amazing! The mountains were snow capped and views of glaciers along with turquoise glacier lakes claimed our attention. The only area of the Jasper National Park that was accessible was the Athabasca Glacier so we stopped to join many others walking to the overlook. We could see several people who had signed up to take an excursion onto the glacier itself. We opted to keep our boots on dirt and rocks. 

As we continued along the Icefields we made multiple stops to capture images of the surrounding mountains, glaciers and lakes. Our destination for the next few nights was a campground in Banff, Tunnel Mountain Village. From here we were able to watch the Supermoon and a partial lunar eclipse just a few hundred feet from our campsite. While in the campground we got to visit with two different campers who were from Germany. One young lady from Munich was interning there in Banff and was heading to Louisiana for her next assighment (quite a contrast in ecosystems). The other woman was from Berlin and was on sabbatical. She had spent two weeks in the Yukon on horseback. Both were loving their time in Canada. 

Banff has long been a sightseeing destination. We hiked a trail that led to an overlook where King George VI and Queen Elizabeth had come in May of 1939 (I think they started their trek closer to the top than we did). The view from the top was amazing! There were still many tourists in the area in the latter half of September but some businesses were getting ready to close for the winter. Our last day there snow covered the surrounding peaks providing some beautiful images! 

We opted to take a lesser traveled road after we left Banff. Highway 40 runs along the eastern side of the Continental Divide. The views along the road were amazing with a snow storm added to the enjoyment. Just the drive through this area anchored a hope to return and explore the area more thoroughly. 

This Journey's End in Sight

Our next destination was Lethridge, Alberta, where we ended our 40 day straight stay in our tent! We opted for night in a motel, showers and pizza for dinner. The next day we were slated to be in Glacier National Park for a few nights so a laundry visit was in order.  We drove through the Waterton Lakes National Parks but did not take much time to explore. It gives us one more reason to return to this area on another adventure we hope! 

Crossing the border from Canada back to the US was relatively uneventful though we had to discard our tomatoes purchased in Canada. And then we were back to Montana and one of our favorite National Parks, Glacier! Canada had been an amazing travel adventure and we had logged over 11,000 miles since we had left North Dakota in August. We were so thankful for all the dreams fulfilled on our journey: the last three US national parks we could drive to; grizzly bears, black bears, eagles and moose plus caribou and wood bison; sea otters, sea lions, seals, puffins and whales; Northern Lights on multiple nights; glaciers, glaciers and more glaciers; mountains of huge proportions; and delightful, resilient people from many places around the globe! We are so very thankful for this surprise trip that God allowed us to take!